Review on Esquire

Steakhouses seem to evoke blood, ruggedness and big game, at least to our writer. But something has shifted recently, and she's found herself regularly visiting Kuala Lumpur’s new steakhouse, Ril’s Bangsar. We ask her why.

I’ve never been much of a steakhouse girl, although, I’m not sure what one would look like. Navigating cavernous restaurants, stabbed by unvarnished wood columns (“paint will ruin the natural grain,”  I can almost hear the manly patron bellow) was never my cup of tea. But I do seem to find myself seated, time and again, in Kuala Lumpur’s newest steakhouse, Ril’s Bangsar.

On my latest steakhouse tryst, I was ushered upstairs to Ril’s swanky art deco lounge, attended by a waiter wearing red suspenders and a dapper matching bow-tie. The first entrée served was seared foie gras in a honey soy reduction with pineapple tempura, plated at a transverse angle with a smear of spiced cherry compote.

I usually dislike cherry in all forms; childhood memories of cherry-flavoured cough syrup being forced down my retching throat. Maraschino cherries are even worse. Why anyone enjoys those neon red rubbery cake toppings is beyond me; yet this cherried compote was delicious. The saucier at Ril’s is clearly inspired.

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